Handcrafted dessert at Milse

mandarin sorbet balloon

After my last post about chocolate bars at Milse, I felt that a closer investigation was in order. Internet rumour suggested that besides all kinds of beautifully-presented dairy products, this celebrated new dessert restaurant catered well to vegans.

So one evening, after dinner at Mexico with friends, we wandered around the corner to see if we could find a seat to have dessert.

Milse is tiny and doesn’t take reservations, so you don’t need to book ahead or warn them that you’re bringing your special dietary requirement. I just told the waiter that I’d heard they could cater for vegans, and he immediately pointed out which one of the menu options they could adapt for me: the mandarin-based one.

Later, when I ordered a pot of tea, he asked if I wanted soy milk on the side; I felt well looked after.


mandarin sorbet balloon, cracked

Dessert was a sensory experience. We sat at the bar overlooking the kitchen, so we were able to watch our orders be constructed in front of us, and guess at some of the ingredients. Each plate was a carefully curated assemblage of textures and tastes: visually stunning, and a delight to eat.

Central on my plate was a hollow balloon of mandarin sorbet, that I cracked open to reveal fresh and jellied fruit pieces. This was surrounded by hazelnut wafer, candied pecans, tamarillo, freeze-dried raspberries, tiny squares of sponge cake and a few microgreens. The combinations of sour citrus and sweet nuts were thoughtful and delicious.

Afterwards, I thanked the chef for taking care of me. “I suppose you’re used to a couple of scoops of sorbet,” he smiled. “Or fruit salad,” I agreed.

It’s lovely to be able to share dessert with friends and to be served something that’s as fancy and imaginative as the animal-based options. I’m glad this exists.